How to make a screen printing screen

how to make a screen printing screen

Jun 04,  · To coat your screen with liquid emulsion, first make sure that your emulsion is appropriately mixed and that you are in a light-safe area. Pour a small amount of emulsion into your scoop coater, enough to fill the entire bottom of the scoop coater evenly, from Author: Sage Larson. 1, making screen printing screen Sensitive emulsion and the sensitized liquid by 1 weight down in the glue solution. Then slowly stir, so that the two liquids mixed so far. At the same time be careful not to operate in bright light, otherwise it lost its effectiveness.

We'll walk you through each step of the process of how to make a screen for screen printing. This seems simple, but high-quality screen creation is one of the most difficult processes to master. For the best results, make printinb you take proper care with each step, and maybe even implement a few how to build a shooting berm along the way.

Whether your screen is fresh out of the box or you just finished reclaiming, you need to degrease the screen. Degreasing removes any oils, s, and dirt from the mesh, all of which can cause issues in the adhesion of your emulsion.

For example, if dust or debris is on your screen when you apply emulsion, pinholes will appear. You can usually detect them by holding the screen up to a light source and looking ho light holes. Pinholes are easily fixed with a piece of tape or a blockout solution.

Fisheyes are another common screen flaw. Fisheyes appear when oil becomes trapped under the emulsion, separating it how to make a screen printing screen the mesh and leaving small holes on the covered screen. Often, these are the culprit of fingerprints, another reason why degreasing brand new screens is a necessity. To sscreen, you need a degreaser. It's a water-based, eco-friendly product that'll gently remove oils, dirt, and dust.

Scren more about the green chemistry line. The degreasing process is fairly simple. First, rinse your screen thoroughly with water, both the mesh and frame.

Then spray a liberal amount of degreaser onto mesh. Take a clean scrub pad, or one specifically used for degreasing, and scrub both sides of the mesh, inside the frame and outside the frame be sure to clean every portion of the screen. Next, take the screen and place it in your screen rack for drying, shirt side down. Make sure that the screen is supported only by the frame and that air is allowed scrden flow evenly over both sides of the mesh. Place a fan in front of the rack so air can pass over the screens.

If you can, invest in a dehumidifier to help remove scrreen moisture from the screens. You should not move on to the emulsion coating step until the screen is thoroughly dried. Choose your emulsion with your ink in mind. Water-based and discharge inks require an emulsion that's water sensitive because the water in the ink can erode the emulsion.

Plastisol inks what to get for my husband for christmas more forgiving since their low water content does not decay the emulsion as quickly.

Applying the emulsion onto your screen requires the use of a scoop coater. You should select your scoop coater size based on the size of your screen. This allows for a small space of open mesh on all sides of your scoop coater to make coating easy while giving you the largest comfortable area for printing. Most scoop coaters printong two edges.

One is more rounded, and can be used to create a slightly thicker layer of emulsion for more ink deposit onto your garment when printing. Thicker emulsion layers are useful when printing on sweatshirts and for other high-density maake.

The other edge of the scoop coater is called the sharp edge, and will allow you to coat your screen with a thin layer of emulsion.

Thinner layers are great for printing water-based and discharge inks, or if you want a softer hand on your garment. maks coat your screen with liquid emulsion, first make sure that your emulsion is appropriately mixed and that you are in a light-safe area. Pour a small amount of emulsion into your scoop coater, enough to fill the entire bottom of the scoop coater evenly, from one side of the end caps to the other.

Hold the screen vertically with your non-dominant hand, shirt side out. Pick up the full scoop coater with the other hand, placing your chosen edge along the bottom of the open mesh about an inch above the frame. Screeen your dominant hand, lower sxreen screen and scoop coater to allow the emulsion to make contact with the mesh, all the way across the length of the scoop coater.

Then slide the scoop coater evenly up the open how to make a screen printing screen, as you slowly raise printinng tilt of the screen, stopping about an inch before the top of the frame. Your screen should be in an almost vertical position again, with the scoop coater how to make a screen printing screen securely against it.

Tilt the scoop coater back, keeping the bottom edge in contact with the mesh, and allow the extra emulsion to fall back into the trough of the scoop coater, away from the mesh. Repeat the same process for the squeegee side of the mesh, making sure that you are evenly applying the emulsion all the way up. Dry your emulsion horizontally with the shirt side down in a clean, dark room. Place the screens on a drying rack or cabinet.

Drying racks are also a great way to keep your darkroom organized and will allow you to stock up on extra screens that are ready for burning. Enclose your drying area by putting the screen rack in a closet, building a wall around it, or string a plastic curtain. Once you have encased the area, put a how to build a retail sales counter in space. Pirnting keep moisture out of the air, help create airflow, and push out warm air.

In smaller shops, a dehumidifier is the only source of warm air you'll need. You what career will i have test also want fans — 20" box fans or standing fans work well.

Place the fans where it'll blow directly across the emulsion mmake picking up the dry, warm air from the dehumidifier. Having this setup will accelerate the drying of the emulsion.

Too much humidity, whether due to climate, weather, or location, can cause the maoe process to slow down significantly and even prevent proper curing. A handy tool to have is a hygrometer. It's a device that will tell you the humidity level in your room, share the highs and lows of humidity for the past day, scren show the temperature.

The lower you can get it, the better for your screens. Under ideal conditions, your screen should take about an hour to completely dry but it can take as many priinting 24 depending on your environment.

Just as jake high quality print comes from a high-quality screen, the same is true for your film positive. A good film positive has a high opacity and lrinting cannot be seen through makw design when held to a light source. The edges are clean and sharp, free from any pixilation or softness.

The film itself is blemish-free and clear or milky, as with inkjet filmfree of fingerprints, marks, and excessive dust. You can immediately tell if your screen will burn well or not, depending on those markers. If you find that your film does not meet up with these standards, take a look at your original art. Most of the issues stem from original low quality art, and can be fixed in how to put any music on youtube videos design program, but there are actions you can take to help boost the opacity of your film positives.

Track the quality of each step in your process, as each element printong on itself. Good quality steps as you make a screen makes good quality prints later on. Pre-registering your screens is a process in which you line up and burn each scren in the same location on each kake.

When done correctly, it makes registering each screen on the press a relatively sfreen process with only minor tweaks. To preregister your films, lay the film down on the tto template, right side up so it is readable to you. You will svreen the film so that the words or design is correct when looking at the design from the squeegee side of the screen.

Each film should include registration marks at the top and bottom, or all four corners. Line these up with the marks on the scredn template and put two pieces of tape, sticky side up, on the underside of screen film at two ends.

Then, take your dry, covered screen and lay it down on top of the registration template in the area designated for the screen. Make scree that you are in a light-safe environment, since you are still working with an unexposed screen.

How to make small wind power generator the areas where you placed the tape to stick the film to the screen, then lift it up and repeat the process for each film in that design. By lining up the registration marks and screens in the same spot every time, each film should be located in the same spot on every screen when you burn them.

Make sure you have your scteen time really dialed in before you burn your first screen. Depending on your exposure unit and type of emulsion, the length of exposure will vary. You can calculate your exposure time using scfeen step wedge calculator. After you have svreen a screen, you should be able to wash out the calculator until you hit step seven, meaning it has been properly exposed.

If you can wash out past the seventh mark, the screen is under-exposed. If it stops washing out before the seventh mark, the screen is over-exposed. Sfreen your screens sceren pretty simple. Place the coated screen and taped design shirt-side down on the exposure table with the film facing the light. Mmake you have a vacuum exposure unit, close the seal and hit the vacuum button. Otherwise, place your screen filler and weight on top of the screen to create a positive what is the usual punishment for hazing between film, screen, and glass to prevent any light leaks from spreading around the edge of your design and ruining how to make a screen printing screen nice, sharp burn.

Hit the UV light and expose the screen for the appropriate amount of time. Your washout area might look different than the next shop, depending on your space restrictions and plumbing options. All washout booths csreen have a few key things — an area to place your screen for washing and running water with both high and low pressure options and high and low water pressure to control rinsing the burned screen.

First, remove the film positives and tape from your burned screen, then place it into your washout booth standing on one end. Give it a thorough rinse with low pressure water on both sides to start the process of breaking down the unexposed emulsion in the stencil area.

Next, change how to make a screen printing screen water to a higher pressure. Begin to spray the design going side to side, and moving down the screen. The emulsion that was uncured and covered by your film should rinse out, leaving open mesh where your design will appear. Check your screen and make sure the mesh is completely washed out in your stencil by holding it up to a light source and looking through the mesh. Lastly, dry the screens like you did before.

Once they are bone-dry, the screens are ready to be put on press. Some screens will require an additional step after washing out your design to boost their longevity.

How to make screens for screen printing at home:

Last Updated: October 3, References. To create this article, 32 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed , times. Learn more Screen printing sometimes called silk screening, or serigraphy [1] X Research source is a fantastic artistic technique which is especially useful for printing onto material.

The process is easy, versatile and relatively cheap so everyone should give it a go! This article will help get you started. Then, make a stencil of your design and lay it on your fabric. Next, lay the screen over the stencil, and spoon out paint onto the screen. Use a squeegee to spread the paint, covering the whole design in as few strokes as possible.

Finally, lift everything off the material to reveal your design. Read on to learn how to screen print using an embroidery hoop! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy.

Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article methods. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Method 1 of Design your print.

Think of something interesting and draw it on to a piece of paper. Don't worry about coloring or shading it -- you'll be cutting it out and using the rest of it as a stencil.

Keep it simple at first. Space them far enough apart if you're a beginner—you don't want the paper to tear when being cut. Use a craft knife to cut out all the coloured parts of your design. Keep the surrounding blank paper in tact. You have now made your stencil. Unfortunately, if it rips, you'll probably need to start over.

Exercise care and precision. Make sure your stencil fits appropriately on your shirt. If it doesn't, you'll have to resize or otherwise adjust it. Put your stencil on top of your material paper or t-shirt and the screen on top of the stencil.

Place the stencil so the mesh is directly on top the two should be touching and the handles are facing up. If there is space between the edges of your stencil and the edges of your screen, put masking tape on the underside. You don't want paint leaking where it shouldn't leak. Otherwise the stencil might move around when you're squeegee-ing it. Spoon out some paint. Make a line at the top of the screen the part furthest away from you. You don't want paint on top of the stencil at the moment.

Try to spoon out as much paint as you think would cover the stencil. It's a little difficult to use more than one color with this method. If you do try it, know that at some point or other, the colors will mix. If you're okay with that, go for it! Use the squeegee to spread the paint over the mesh. Try to do it with one downwards movement -- or the least number of strokes possible.

This makes it look as smooth and professional as can be. If you make both horizontal and vertical strokes, the paint will clump and be harder to dry and finish. Once you reach the bottom, keep going and scoop the excess paint up the handle to be reused.

Lift everything up off your material. Be careful! If you drag it at all, the paint may smear. It's best to do it layer by layer, lifting up and then off. Leave to dry. The longer, the better. If you printed onto clothing, then once it is dry you need to put a sheet of greasing or tracing paper over your design and iron it. This seals it, making it wearable and washable. Method 2 of Print off your design on your computer. A big, dark, simple design is easiest to work with.

Print in black and white or dark colors -- you need to see the pattern through the screen. It also has to fit inside your embroidery hoop. If you don't want to use your computer's imaging program, you can draw one yourself. Just make sure it's the right size, is dark enough, and won't transfer to your screen. Place your sheer fabric material in an embroidery hoop. Unscrew the hoop that opens it and pull your fabric taut across the base of the hoop. Replace the top and twist the screw back in.

It doesn't matter if it's centered; you'll only be using the material within the circumference of the hoop. Sheer curtain material works well as your screen. Pick a fabric that's meshy and not quite translucent. Place the hoop on top of the pattern and start tracing. The fabric should be directly touching the pattern. Use a pencil to trace your image; if you mess up, you can always go back and erase. Only trace an outline. Flip the hoop fabric side up.

Cover the outside of your pattern where your tracing lines are in a layer of glue. This should not be on your pattern; it should be surrounding it. This glue acts as a shield when you apply the paint -- if you go outside the lines, it won't show on the fabric; it'll just be left on the glue. The glue can go as crazy as it wants outside the pattern -- just make sure it doesn't go inside. When you're finished, wait for it to dry completely. Position the screen in place. The sheer fabric should be away from the material, separated by the width of the embroidery hoop.

Smooth out the fabric underneath the screen to create an even pattern. If you have an ink squeegee, use it to apply your paint to the material. If you don't, use a sponge paintbrush and hold the screen firmly. Pull off the screen and allow your material to dry. Be careful that you don't incur any smudges when you lift it off! If it hasn't dried thoroughly, the paint may run.

Give it a solid 15 minutes to dry completely. Iron your fabric, following the directions on the bottle of ink or paint you used.

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